Cosplay inspired by Jenna Coleman's character, Clara Oswald, from Doctor Who, The Snowmen (Season 7, Episode 6).
No copyright infringement intended. I do not make any money from this website. Makers marks are never cropped from images. All images found on pinterest.
Conclusions from Character Study
Bodice
The bodice is a polonaise style with a large black bow at the waist on the back.
The front is pleated with a semi-detached black boarder. The same fabric is used as the collar and the cuffs. The black boarder extends into a V at the back of the bodice.
The buttons look like they are sitting right on the edge of the closure, they are more likely for show than function, I will use hook and eyes for the front closure.
Skirt
Gathered skirt, 5 sections of gathers. Pleated trim around the hem.
Hat
Swede fabric hat with ostrich feather, fabric flower and band.
Cape
Velvet short cape, extending into a V at the back. Collared, with velvet ribbon to tie together at front.
Patterns Used
Bodice
Burda 7880 has been used as a base pattern and then extended into the polonaise design.
Skirt
No pattern used. Just a long rectangle stitched together at a side seam. Pocket added.
Hat
Truly Victorian 550 - 1880s Tapered Hat Pattern
Cape
Butterick 5265
A Victorian corset, petticoat, and bustle pad are worn under this costume to create the required shape.
Work Flow
Step One: Creating the Skirt
For the skirt, I took the length of fabric straight from the bolt (may have been 5 or 6 metres but cannot remember now), measured up into four sections and then ran gathering stitches across the length of fabric.
Gathered the sections to sit evenly and to allow for enough movement when walking.
The top section is gathered into the waistband and the pleats are attached at the bottom.
The gathers are stitched in place, they have been stitched onto a length of twill tape for stability and strength.
The fabric for the pleats is hemmed on one edge then pleated using a pleating board. They are ironed with a 1 part vinegar 3 part water solution to create crisp lines and pleats that will hold.
The seam for this skirt is at the side, closed with a hook and bar. Because I made this costume as a cosplay, I have also added a pocket into the side seam.
Step Two: Creating the Bodice
I used a commercial pattern (Burda 7880) as a base to get started. Most of this bodice has been draped and designed by trying things out and fiddling.
I elongated the base pattern and curved the panels around to the back to create the polonaise. The majority of the bodice has been lined.
The pleats on the front of the bodice were made from a rectangular piece of the main fabric which I stitched down and ironed with 1 part vinegar 3 part water solution. I then cut the heart shaped design out and stitched down to the bodice.
The black outline around the neckline and front closure was done by using tracing paper over the bodice to make a pattern. I made a few trail pieces out of calico first to make sure the fit was right.
The front closure is a hook and eye tape down the front edge. I have a couple of internal belts with hook and eyes in order to take some of the weight off the back of the polonaise and allow the bodice to sit right.
The cuffs were lined, sewn to the end of the sleeves, and then folded back over and hand-tacked down to keep in place.
Buttons are stitched at the seam on the cuffs and at the edge down the front closure. These are decorative only, not functional.
The bow at the back is made from two rectangles. One with points at either end, the other is squared off.
Both rectangles are pleated at the middle. The bottom rectangle is two rectangles pleated and sewn together because I didn't have a long enough strip of fabric! This can be done as one long piece.
The top rectangle is a long narrow rectangle that is pleated in the middle and then wrapped at the centre in the same fabric. The wrapped section is then attached to the bottom rectangle to look like a huge bow.
Both of these pieces are bag lined with the same fabric so that the bow looks the same from both sides.
Step Three: Creating the Hat
I used the Truly Victorian 550 pattern to create my hat for Clara's outfit. I chose the tall crown option to go with this costume.
Milliners wire and buckram are used to create the hat. The wire is there to shape the buckram frame. The frame is covered with navy blue suede fabric.
Finished hat!
The band and flower around the hat have been made with silk fabric. The feathers are stitched to the hat first then covered by the band.
Step Four: Creating the Cape
The cape has been made with dark blue plain velvet, closed with a blue velvet ribbon which is sewn in at the collar and tied into a bow. The front edge and the hem are decorated with a knot style trim.
The cape itself has been made mostly by following the pattern, with an alteration of the back and different closure. I turned the back into a V shape instead of it curving around and I inserted the ribbon into the collar for the closure.
Final Outcome
Victorian bustle dress based off Clara's costume, including hat, cape, bodice, and skirt.
Photos curtesy of Tracey Meeten.
Comentários